A Christmas Celebrating the People who Come Through
A reflection for me, an introduction to some incredibly gifted people for you; Never fear - there is also an easy recipe for your holiday weekend! Merry Merry Everyone! xo
I’ve been baking since the turn of the century. That’s almost twenty four years ago, for anyone that’s counting (I’m trying not to). For a decade, I baked for people out of whatever kitchen was in my domicile - taking orders over the phone, by casual conversations at parties, by notes tucked into my mailbox.
By 2007, I was baking professionally in restaurants - a very big change from being a front of house professional with a high probability of becoming a lifelong, career server. I admire(d) professional servers - it is a dying art and vocation. There is something remarkable and special about pros who know how hospitality can and should be - thoughtful, careful, quiet, watchful, them never assuming to be more than an important gear in how well your meal goes, not a friend, not a chummy buddy who needs to thrill you with overreaching enthusiasm or euphemisms - they are simply (not simply) a gracious, highly informed steward to present the food and the wine the best way it can be with care and consideration. I love the service industry for this expertise. When you see it, you know it. You feel it.
But I digress! My deep love for the hospitality industry goes beyond baking. It takes many, many hands to make a good restaurant, workshop or event tick. Around and after 2007, I started teaching baking workshops all around Nashville and then eventually in NYC and San Francisco. This was coupled with Buttermilk Road (which began as my pop-up supper club - you can read about here - but also became the name of my company and traveling road show.) For a long time (as I still do), I traveled and taught and cooked and also, as one does, I learned and learned and learned. What became available to me in regard to food and the very good people who make this world their lives has been the best gift of all. The people I know through this work are, I’m convinced, some of the best people around.
These last few weeks, I’ve been knee deep in organizing and categorizing my old menus and recipes for both easier access and, more importantly, for a few big and quite broad (exciting) projects that I am working on for the next couple of years.
There is a tedium to this work, to be sure. I’ve been creating spreadsheets and folders and files and, if you know me, you know that this is not my favorite space to occupy in the world. BUT, quite beautifully, it has been such a happy and truly joyful opportunity to think about the many, many good people who have participated and, if I’m being honest, helped me carry my mission onward toward a place where I can keep cooking and baking and writing and teaching. I only hope, in this reflection, that I helped and encouraged and loved them in some small ways toward their dreams as well. What I do know for sure is that we definitely had fun - there is the potential for such joy in the spaces we shared and they were all there to find it right alongside me. I’m happy to report that we’re all still all out here building the lives that keep us hoping and loving and living. Most of these folks are still some of my dearest and best friends - family really. Which is yet another testament to how a dedication to food and service really brings the right people together.
So, today - today I celebrate a few of the people who have been so important in my past - they are stamped all over my recipes and menus and memories, making for a pretty good and fulfilling glimpse at one’s life. I love thinking about them, these people. I love that I spent so many good times with them building and planning and plotting and loving.
A thing that feels important to say: Surround yourself with good people that you can trust, good people who chose love and true kindness over pettiness and jealousy, good people who are truly joyful about and dedicated to the quality of work in front of them, people who give more than they take and who never, not once, lose sight of the powerful feeling that comes from seeing something succeed, who know how to bring out the best in others and bring their best, truest selves to every endeavor. These people exist. Don’t let the ones who muck up the atmosphere with their weirdness convince you otherwise.
I hope this inspires you to take a moment to celebrate the people in your past (and present) who might have touched or bettered your life, helped you grow as a human, inspired your actions and motivated you to be your best self - as cheesy as that sounds (who cares!). Just thinking about these guys makes me feel like I’ve absolutely succeeded in this life.
NOTE: This is not completely self-serving! And it is NOT a wholly exhaustive list - there were so many good friends who came to play and work and hang out who mattered and who matter. I’m really keen on bragging on these particular beauties today because they have all built incredibly lives and careers and you should know them, too! From farmers to ceramicist - they make the world go round! Check them out!
Jess Cheatham of Salt Ceramics: Jess was my ride or die for SO, so, so many one off projects, events, classes. You name it, Jess was THERE ready to roll. We have a lot of good stories, a lotta history between us. I just adore her and her very good heart. She started her own company in Nashville about a decade ago - the now L.A. based storefront Salt Ceramics and it is a testament to her singular focus and hard work over (not to mention a her giant leap of faith and bravery moving out of the Nashville nest to the coast to build a new life). I admire and love her in so many ways. You should check it out online, pop into her new storefront in Silverlake and, just in general, support everything she does. She’s just the best. Love you, J.
Tonya Bradford!! The details are murky but, I know I got a random email from her before she was leaving New York, was it 2009? 2010? I think? A true, dedicated baker through and through, one who studied and practiced and found real joy in the processes (what a gift!) - she was looking for work and heard about what I was doing. I am not sure I have ever hit it off so immediately and so exuberantly with someone before or since. We baked for a long time together - and we baked a LOT. Working out of a borrowed catering kitchen on their off hours, she was part of my small staff and I am so honored to call her a friend to this day. Also, I am simply so proud of the transition she made into her dream. From the day I met her, she talked about farming, intending to use baking as a way to settle into Nashville but knowing, ultimately, that she wanted to own some land and do this important work. She now owns and runs, with her actual, real-deal kick ass and no bullshit VERY good human of a husband Michael, a small farm in Neely’s Bend, Tennessee called Una Acre Farms. (Side shoutout to Michael: thanks for always showing up and hustling with us, you were a real MVP every-single-time you needed to be, truly kind and funny and generous and I’ll love you forever.) If you are a Nashville local, PLEASE do yourself a favor and sign up for her CSA. She also packages some pantry items too - jams, etc. I am so happy for this dear woman in all of her successes. I celebrate and love her very much.
Andrea Behrends - I mean. I have a lot of very sensational photographer friends, tried and true pros, and so many of them showed up for events and suppers and workshops. Andrea Behrends, though - well, we came up together in a pretty special way. This was one of those real professional and kismet friendships. I said her name in any room I was in where it might have mattered and she showed up with her camera any (and I mean ANY) time I needed someone to help me show what I was trying to do in the most beautiful way. It was a special time in Nashville and that was largely in part to people like Andrea Behrends, who, with her hilarious, dry humor and ABSOLUTE skill and dedication to her craft, made every single thing better just by being present, camera or not. She is still one of my favorite photographers to date who documents lifestyle, food&cookbooks (with my other dear friend Mayme Gretsch, wündertalent, brilliant pastry chef and food stylist), and portraiture. I love sincere professionals who take their work seriously and Andrea turns up and turns out as one of the best of them.
I only cooked with Trisha Greentree once in New York City, but we became lifelong friends and have lived our lives and raised our kids in tandem with one another, even though she is on the other side of the globe in Sydney, Australia. The level of skill and talent this woman brought to the show was unsinkable. With her wild talents, she shows up so excited to play and talk about food in the way that I am learning is rare and seemingly very singular to only a certain kind of people. Trisha is inspired and inspiring. Knowing people who seek cooking as THE thing, as THE reward and THE goal is something that matters to me and Trisha lives for this work and cares very deeply about her work. I adore her. I adore people like her and just feel pure honor to think about her as a peer. If you’re ever in Sydney, you should check out Fratelli Paradiso and eat everything on her spectacular menu.
Robin Riddell Jones KNOWS about wine. She has studied, traveled, researched, tasted and devoted her professional life to knowing what the hell she is talking about beyond fads and fashions. She and I became the kind of friends who feel more like sisters over time, popping into each other’s houses, supporting each other during motherhood, marriages, new businesses, old businesses, and every other transition you can think of. She planned the wines for just about every event or supper I ever planned or hosted - spectacularly considered, paired and discussed without pretension. Her warmth and true advocacy for the makers, coupled with a sharp knowledge of the wines at hand, makes Robin one of the best wine pros out there. Nashville lost Robin to Gulf Shores, Alabama too many years ago - but she is still my number one consult on so many things, especially wine. I hope to work more with her again in the future, but for now, I’m enjoying watching her raise three of my favorite human children with her dropdead gorg and loving, kind and warm husband Lee. I am also overjoyed to see her starting a new company called Isla Wine. Check it out, Gulf Coast people! She is currently popping up at Foam Coffee Shop and a wine club that is currently only for pick up. If you’re local to that area, don’t miss out. Also, not for nothing, once you know her, you’re going to want to find reasons to be around her good spirit and bright light. Wine is a good enough reason.
There is so much that I want to say about Molly Levine that I’ve saved her for last in this montage of brilliant women whom I have had the incredible fortune of working with. Molly was leading the kitchen (at a very young age!) in a small, charming, briefly endeavored cafe called Silly Goose in old Nashville. She was creating some of the most perfectly balanced and creative salads Nashville had (and has) ever seen. I can’t remember how we met, everyone knew everyone back then. But she came to cook with me frequently, for as long as she could, before heading to Berkeley, California to work a long and successful tenure at Chez Panisse. It has been an honor to watch her grow into a superb, serious and masterful chef who is dedicated to the quality of her work and her vision. Having her come into my orbit at such a young age (I think she was just turning 22 when we first cooked together!), I don’t mind saying that I have felt like a bit of a protective and very proud big sister for the last twelve or thirteen years. If you are in NYC or New York State (or anywhere near there), you should - without hesitation - make it up to Westerly Canteen once Molly and Co. start cooking again in the new season. This is her current business and it will surely, knowing her dedication, grown into even more wonderful things and opportunities to experience her food. Her menus are gorgeous. Her food, like her, is resplendent and true.
This recipe for Cheddar Cheese Coins was published in Food&Wine this past summer in the July issue but as I was out of country teaching I did not get to celebrate it quite the way I would have liked to. Also, I feel like this would be a fantastic and easy recipe to knock out for your holiday guests this weekend. The dough keeps well in the freezer.
There are a few variations which include an ode to my dear friends the Benton’s in Madisonville, Tennessee who make the best bacon and country ham around, their namesake, Benton’s Bacon.
Enjoy!
Cheddar Cheese Coins / Photo JENNIFER CAUSEY / FOOD STYLING CHELSEA ZIMMER / PROP STYLING THOM DRIVE
Cheddar Cheese Coins
These crisp and buttery crackers with a sharp cheddar bite are perfect for snacking on their own or served topped with prosciutto.
By Lisa Donovan
July 20, 2023 / To my southern mind, a cheese coin is just an oddly shaped cheese straw. I’m not so old a dog that I can’t learn new tricks. But I did go to the source for this recipe. I unearthed my cheese straw recipe, which is a variation of Ms. Edna Lewis’ and Sir Scott Peacock’s, and then worked with it as I confusingly stared down several cheese coin recipes that are nearly identical, wondering all the while why something as historically good as a straw got a makeover. No matter! Whatever shape you choose for your cheese snack, these are easy, can be made ahead and stored for emergency company or even just a private craving. I’ve given a few variations to keep in the spirit of not knowing when to quit with a good thing. I think Ms. Lewis would still approve.
Best accompaniment, by my estimation is a cold glass of natural wine – something funky to play with the cheese and spice. If you feel like making a meal out of them, you can couple them with a salad as croutons or side crackers – they’re also not bad with tomato soup.
Cheese Coins / yield : about five dozen
12 ounces. Sharp Cheddar Cheese, shredded
1.5 cups All Purpose Flour
1T. Cornstarch
1t. Salt
¼ t. Cayenne Pepper
1 ¼ t. Dry Mustard
4 ounces Unsalted Butter, chilled and cubed
3T Water
Place cheese, flour, cornstarch, salt, cayenne pepper and dry mustard in the bowl of a food processor. Process until well combined. Add butter in stages processing a little at a time until you have a shaggy, wet sand texture. Scrape bowl if you need to. Turn processor back on. Add water one tablespoon at a time. Be sure to stop processing once dough forms – you can continue working together on the countertop if you’re unsure. It is just important not to work it to death.
Divide dough in half and roll into logs and wrap in plastic. Measure each log to about 9-10” for optimal circumference of your coins. You can choose to make shorter logs for wider/bigger coins or longer logs for smaller rounds – you’re the boss, just adjust your baking time.
In log form, these can hang out in the fridge for up to three days or in your freezer for a month. Regardless of storing them, you’ll want to chill them for at least an hour before you try to slice and bake.
Once they have chilled amply, preheat your oven to 375, prepare sheet trays with parchment or silpats. You’ll then slice your coins about ¼” thick and place them on the pans and then bake for 12-15 minutes until they are toasty and crisp. When fully baked, remove from oven, transfer coins to a cooling rack and let cool. Serve immediately or store in an airtight container with a slice of bread in it to help keep the coins from going stale for two to three days. You can freshen them in the oven.
Variations:
Green Chili and Cornmeal /
Using the base recipe, replace the cornstarch with 2 Tablespoon yellow cornmeal (I prefer Anson Mills Sweet Appalachian Yellow) and replace the ground mustard with 1 Tablespoon of dried powdered hatch green chili. I like to add a few drops of Crystal or Tabasco hot sauce here, by about a teaspoon, as I find it helps bump up the green chili flavor. Continue making and baking the dough as instructed.
Appalachian Style /
Slightly toast 2 teaspoons of freshly ground pepper and 1 Tablespoon of benne seeds in a cast iron skillet. Using the base recipe, add the cooled pepper and benne seeds to the dough with the butter. Continue making the dough as instructed. While you chill the dough, sprinkle ½ cup of benne seeds on a sheet tray. Before you slice your cheese coin log, unwrap it and roll it in the seeds to coat the outside. Slice your coins and bake as instructed.
An Ode to Allan Benton /
Cook three to four slices of Benton’s Bacon, cool and chop. Using the base recipe, lessoning the salt to ½ teaspoon, add the chopped bacon in with the butter to make a wet sand texture. Continue preparing the recipe as instructed. These are a crowd favorite.
Fab. Loved if